Day 68: Makahika Outdoor Pursuits Centre to Paekakariki

John from the Outdoor pursuits centre didn’t have good news this morning, there were still extreme gale force winds predicted for the Tararuas for Wednesday and the other days until Friday weren’t great either. It was hard to believe given it was a lovely sunny morning. The others all made the call to change their plans and after speaking with Gill, I did as well. I guess it’s for the best, but it was disappointing and I set off in a crappy mood, which wasn’t ameliorated by the first two cars I tried to get a hitch from not stopping, one even yelled something at me as she drove past. Third car was a charm, on this quiet road, and we also picked up Maureen and Joe who were just a bit ahead. We got dropped in Levin at the highway, but more importantly in front of a cafe. Maureen and I had donuts while Joe had a burger pie. I then hitched into Waikanae to pick up the trail where it exits the Tararuas. The trail through Waikanae follows a river and was pleasant enough, my mood had improved since having the donut. It eventually comes out at the river estuary and then onto the beach.

The tide was outgoing and the beach much flatter so it was much better than my last beach walk.

I followed the beach all the way to Paekakariki, which seems to be a beach town suburb of Wellington and where there’s a big campground. I wandered an extra 1.5 km into the village centre but the grocery store was disappointing since they didn’t have one piece of fresh fruit, so it felt like a bit of wasted energy. Since the campground is so big, and they don’t have communal campsites for TAers, I don’t know if anyone else I know is here. I think that Maureen and Joe hitched further south..

My plan is now to hike to Wellington, should take me two more days and then catch the train back to Waikanae right away and hopefully start the Tararuas going northbound. The timing means that I might start in some so-so weather but it won’t be extreme and should clear up (as per the current forecast, which is bound to change).

Day 69: Paekakariki to Porirua

I had decided to have breakfast at a cafe and so walked into ‘town’ first thing since the trail heads that way anyways. A lovely baked goods aroma greeted and lured me into the cafe that was producing it. I had an almond croissant and a flat white and when I saw a tray of donuts being brought out, I also had a lemon one of those. The croissant was already a hefty portion and the donut was a bit much, even with the hiker hunger. I didn’t feel great heading up the escarpment track, which follows some cliffs along the coast and isn’t recommended for those with a fear of heights.

Apart from the overly full stomach, the track was fun and very enjoyable since it had some climbs and descents but nothing too hard and it had lovely sea views. There were two swing bridges to cross as well.

There was also a lot of dill growing by the track, which gave a nice scent to the air, at least it was much nicer than smelling myself.

After the escarpment track, the trail follows a cycle/walk path that goes all the way into Wellington. I only went as far as Porirua though. The walking was easy going and it was nicer than road walking. I even felt quite a home when I found a gaggle of Canada geese on the path.

I had originally planned to do my resupply tomorrow in Wellington but there’s no bulk food store near the train station so I would have to gamble that I would be able to get everything I need in the New World. As I was walking into Porirua I realised that they have a New World and Bin Inn here so I made a spur of the moment decision to top up my supplies then and there. I got a few things from the bulk section of New World and then headed to the Bin Inn. I was sadly disappointed not to be able to find any muselei there or bulgur. I ended up getting some nuts and coucous but had to go to the Pak n’ Save as well to get the muselei, which luckily they had in their bulk section. I had about 2 km from the shops to the campsite and was already regretting the weight of the new food. I treated myself to a room at the campsite since it was only $28 and this way I’ll stay dry of it rains as forecast. I found Maureen here. She had camped here last night as well and then took the train up to Paekakariki and slack packed (just had a day pack) back. She had also found the bakery and had the almond croissant and a scone.

Day 70: Porirua to Wellington and then train to Waikanae

My night in the cabin was ok, there was a bit of rattling from the wind, but at least I was dry and sheltered indoors and it was nice not to pack up a wet tent in the morning. I set off up the Colonial Knob track, it was windy but not raining. It was quite a climb up the path next to a stream until I was out of the forest and then it was along a gravel and grassy road to the top.

It was quite windy at the top and on the way down given the winds were from the Southeast, but the trail soon went into a pine forest and it was a fairly easy grade track down to a road. The road took me through some farmland, or horseland more precisely, and then to the start of the Mount Kaukau track. This track started as an easy and steady climb up a gravel road but got much harder once I was on the south side of the Mountain with he wind so strong that it was knocking me off the trail and I was staggering around like I’d had a few too many. It got cloudier as well or maybe it was that I was in the clouds.

The winds on the 400m. Mount Kaukau made me very glad not to be in the Tararuas today and feel better about skipping over them. I also met Joe going northward from Wellington.

After getting down from Mount Kaukau, I was in the Wellington suburbs and stopped at a cafe for lunch, some avocado and feta on sourdough toast. After lunch, it started to rain and with the wind was quite unpleasant. I donned the rain jacket, but I had some crazy streep streets and park trails to climb and was soon too hot and sweaty.

At the top of the steep road, the trail entered a forest and still climbed for a while before eventually descending and ending just north of the central business district at the Botanical Garden. I had a quick walk through the garden and into the CBD. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised about how little road walking I did to get right into the CBD.

I did some errands, picked up my package with my new water filter (lost mine on trail a few days ago) and hiking t-shirt (my old one is disgusting), as well as a New Zealand charger for my phone (lost the adaptor plug that I’m using with my North American charger). Since Caroline and Cecile are in town, we met for a hot chocolate. It was lovely to see them both and I think that I’ll see them in the Tararuas since they’re heading there Friday. I then caught a train and headed up to Waikanae. I asked a random person on the platform if I could pay for my ticket on the train and it turned out to be a woman that I had seen on the escarpment track yesterday. We spent the 1 hour train ride talking and she took me back to her place to speak to her partner about my options for the Tararuas since I’ve also been thinking about doing an alternate to the TA to avoid the crowds of TAers that will be descending on them in the next few days. Her partner dissuaded me from trying a different trail through the Tararuas given that I’d likely be on my own and instead told me that I could try to do a big day to avoid the smallest huts. They invited me to stay but since I already had booked an Airbnb, I sadly declined. They dropped me off in town so that I could get some dinner, a pizza that was a bit disappointing since it wasn’t the type of wood-fired crust that I’m used to. I then walked over to my Airbnb and settled in for the night. My host also tramps and told me that I could have stayed for free since he’s a trail angel. He also iterated that it wouldn’t be safe for me to go off the TA route on my own.