Day 65: zero in Palmy
It wasn’t a great night’s sleep, the mattress wasn’t that comfy and there were a few mozzies buzzing around. I ended up blowing up my air mattress and sleeping on the floor and Lara did a good job of killing the mozzies. I made some eggs and toast for breakfast and then finished seam sealing my jacket. It was then off on the bike to the grocery store. I had originally planned to only get food for a few days but the New World had a great bulk section so I ended up buying food for the week to get me all the way through the Tararuas. I also stopped at the Bin Inn and got a few more things. I then visited Bivouac, an outdoor store, and bought some new trekking poles as mine were coming apart and driving me nuts. I managed to fit it all in the small back pack that Fiona had leant me for the bike back to their place. I made some egg and avocado wraps for lunch and then Fiona helped me understand the adjustments on my pack a lot better so I at least have more ideas of what I can play with to see if I can make it more comfortable. I then read the trail notes for the next parts. Tony and then Nic, my hut mates for the night, then showed up and we spent some time talking about the options for the Tararuas given that the weather forecast isn’t so great for the next 5-6 days. My general plan is to forge ahead since the next few days aren’t weather dependent and reassess before climbing up onto the mountain ridges. We all noted that it’s been nice to be in smaller groups at the campsites/trail angels.


Day 66: Palmerston North to Te Whare o Moturimu hut
I was awake quite early and figured that I might as well get up and get an early start. I had a repeat of yesterday’s breakfast with eggs and toast and fruit. After saying goodbye to Fiona (Anthony wasn’t up yet), it was back to the trail. The way out of Palmy was quite nice, along the river and then across the bridge and onto a foot path that was away from the road. As I went along the river, I crossed an organised run and had quite a few people give me good wishes and even one runner who asked if I was coming from Whiowhio hut. The trail sort of followed the road but often diverted off into some forest or fields. It then went onto a track graded for mountain biking and a couple of cyclists did pass by. One of them congratulated me on almost being half way. A few minutes later I arrived at the 2022-2023 halfway marker. I was trying to take a selfie when another cyclist went by and told me that the view was better at the top of the hill! She obviously didn’t know about the half way marker. A few kms later, there’s a sign that marks the general halfway mark although it differs slightly each year.


The weather deteriorated somewhat after this as it started to rain and was windy. I found a shelter at the carpark for the bike trails to have some lunch under. There were some bikers bbqing there, but sadly, they didn’t offer any of their burgers or sausages. After lunch, I had about 8km to get to Te Whare o Moturimu hut, where I was planning to stay. It was through the forest at first and a steady climb, but then the trail emerged from the forest and was quite exposed, which made the rain feel a lot worse.

About a km before the hut, I reached back into my pack side pocket for my water bottle and filter and realised that my filter wasn’t there. I went back about a km looking for it without any luck. I gave up since I couldn’t fathom going all the way back to my lunch spot where I knew I last had it for sure. I figured that if someone was behind me, they might find it. I also have a small bottle of bleach as a back up for water purification (it’s possible to add a few drops to a water bottle to purify the water and as a bonus you get whiter teeth). A couple did arrive at the hut after me, but they hadn’t seen my filter unfortunately.

Day 67: Moturimu hut to Makahika outdoor pursuits centre
The trail started off today with more gravel road but quickly turned onto Burtons track. It was nice to be in the forest again and on a real hiking track despite the mud. It was overcast but not raining and a really nice temperature for hiking. The trail reached a stream that it forded and then it was a steep slog up a hill and back down to Burtons Whare, where Mr. Burtons set up his homestead a long time ago.

After that it was mostly along side the stream until I reached another hut, where I had some lunch. After another bit of road that went alongside a lake created by a dam, it was onto the Makahika track and a more gradual climb to a summit.

It was quite muddy in places and I managed to sink in up to my knees in one spot.

There were a couple of view points, but it was hard to see much over the trees at the first one and the other didn’t have a great view. After going down the mountain, the trail zigzagged in and out of a stream for a few kms before coming out in some farmland and then onto the road to the Outdoor Pursuits centre, where I’m camping tonight.

It turned into a lovely evening, but there’s a post tropical cyclone forecast to hit the mountain range I’m heading into from here so plans are a bit up in the air.


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