Day 105: Upper Traverse hut to Blue Lake hut

I didn’t have a great night sleep, it wasn’t noisy in the hut but I somehow missed my window to fall asleep and then couldn’t. It didn’t seem too windy in the morning and there were some patches of blue sky peaking through the clouds so it was a go to go over the Travers saddle. The trail climbs just after leaving the hut, but it wasn’t too steep and I was up at the saddle about an hour later. The views were lovely even though it was still partly overcast.

The saddle was a bit chilly and breezy, but the wind wasn’t really strong at all. The descent from the saddle started off in the open and had lovely views but then the trail went into the forest and it was just roots, rocks and trees to look at. Entering the forest, I heard an interesting bird call that turned out to be a Kea, alpine parrot. I didn’t see it but others did. I made it to West Sabine hut just before noon and had a long lunch break there. The trail climbs up again from West Sabine hut but mostly very gradually along a river (west branch of the Sabine River). The track was mostly in the forest, but did emerge from the trees occasionally to some views of the surrounding mountains.

Blue Lake hut is nearby Blue Lake, which has the clearest water in the world, apparently. It certainly is clear in any case. You’re not allowed to touch the lake because it’s sacred to the local Maori, but you can swim in the outlet and drink the water there. The hut is quite full since there were 7 people who already spent an extra day there due to the weather. It also means that the 6 bunk hut for tomorrow will be over capacity…I’m sure we’ll figure it out when we get there.

Day 106: hut-bound

There was a lot of wind and rain overnight, but it seemed to have quieted down by morning. However, going outside the hut, it wasn’t great, there was still wind and light rain. I decided to wait a few hours and see if things cleared up. Others set off, making me second guess waiting. However, they all dribbled back to the hut claiming high winds, poor visibility and cold above the treeline. Even a couple of guys who’d camped a few kms up the trail came back soaked. At noon, it still didn’t look promising so my decision was made to stay put. I played some cards, ate, read, napped and did my physio for my Achilles. The day still went by very slowly. At the end of the afternoon others started to arrive to the already full hut, some camping and some opting to sleep on the hut floor. A hut warden also arrived with grim news about the forecast, it’s supposed to be the same for the next few days, including a windchill of -6 on Waiau pass tomorrow, is this really summer? We’ll get an updated forecast in the morning and the decide between attempting to go over and heading back to St-Arnaud.

Day 107: Blue Lake hut to Waiau hut

The weather seemed to be marginally better this morning than yesterday. It was overcast but there were a few patches of blue sky on occasion and although the wind hadn’t died completely, it seemed ok. We waited for the ranger to come by with the updated forecast and he had good news, it was only supposed to be cloudy today and the wind at the Waiau pass would gust to 85km/hr (better than the 100km/hr that was forecast yesterday). So we (David, Jaime, Max and Mario) headed off. Everyone else had already left without waiting for the forecast. The first climb was up to lake Constance, another alpine lake that it’s prohibited to touch.

The sun started to come out behind us, but the pass was still socked in clouds.

After following the shoreline it was up the valley a bit more and then the climb up the Waiau pass started. It was quite the climb, but the views were gorgeous making the hard work worthwhile.

About 100m below the pass, I looked up to see that a sky was looking faintly blue up there. We pushed hard to the top and as we arrived the clouds disappeared for good and we were treated to the amazing views. It was windy and cold, so we didn’t stay too long, just long enough to celebrate and take a few pics.

The way down was quite scrambly at first, but overall it was a lot easier on the knees than the descent from Travers Saddle. We breaked for lunch at a spot with a view of a cascading waterfall and the also of the mountains all around.

The afternoon followed the Waiau river and mostly was a gentle downhill.

We arrived at Waiau hut and managed to snag bunks in the 6 bunk hut since we had overtaken everyone who left earlier. After stretching, I went for a swim in the river. For once I managed to get all the way in. Back at the hut, it was time to chill (effect of the refreshing dip) and make dinner. Today was very up there with my best day on trail, simply stunning.

Day 108: Waiau hut to wild camp between Anne and Boyle flat huts

I didn’t have a good sleep at all, just woke up after a couple of hours and couldn’t get back to sleep. I got up just before 7 and was on my way just after 8. The sun hadn’t risen above the surrounding mountains yet and it was chilly but magical with some low-lying clouds shrouding some of the valleys.

My Achilles was flaring up from the get go even though (or maybe because?) the track was mostly flat. I still managed to make pretty good time since the track was so easy. It followed the Waiau river in and out of of numerous tributary streams (it was a wet feet sort of day).

At one point the track climbed into a trees section and after a while I couldn’t find the trail anymore only to realise that it was the other side of a barbed wire fence. I found a place where others had obviously hopped over before since the barbs were all tucked downwards and got back over to the correct side. The track eventually turned into an atv type track and was even easier. The crossing of the Ada river was also a sinch since the water was only shin deep. I did miss a junction at one point and probably did almost a km, including another river crossing, before realising that I wasn’t on trail any longer. I doubled back to where I went wrong and got back on trail. I arrived at Anne hut around 2:30. By now my Achilles was extremely painful and my pace had slowed considerably. I wasn’t sure if I would go on or stay, but over the next hour so many people arrived that I decided to move on since I wanted peace and quiet after my sleepless night. I hobbled away from the hut, but soon my Achilles warmed up and I could walk without too much discomfort. I did another 5.7 km to where the trail leaves the stream and goes up to a saddle and set up camp. Lea, who has been around for the last few days, came by as I was setting up the tent and decided to join me. It’s been a quiet evening apart from some honks from some Canada geese, which hopefully keep hiker midnight (9 pm) and don’t rise too early.

Day 109: Wild camp to Boyle Village

I had left the tent fly open and had had beautiful stars and the Milky Way to look at when I woke up during the night.

I took an anti-inflammatory with breakfast since the Achilles wasn’t any better and hobbled off not sure how far I would make it. I was hoping to get to the Outdoor Education Centre in Boyle before 3 pm since that’s when they close. Luckily the anti-inflammatory kicked in or something helped because the pain resolved during the first few kms. The trail again followed rivers with a few open areas, but then mostly through the forest into Boyle Village.

The trail was undulating and the walking wasn’t too challenging. I arrived at the OEC just after 2 pm, in time to get my food parcel and get a bed for the night. They ended up putting me, Lea and another hiker, James, in a cottage since they have a school group coming tomorrow and need to get the bunk house ready for them. They also sell frozen pizzas so we each had one of these for dinner. I wasn’t sure that I had enough snacks for the next section so I also ended up buying a few granola bars, breaking my run on no bars on trail, given they all come in single serve plastic. Unfortunately they have very few options here. My plan is to head on tomorrow (not zero in the nearby town), the upcoming section isn’t supposed to be very difficult and I just want to keep going.