Day 79: Wellington to Schoolhouse Bay

It was time to finally leave Wellington so I was up early to get to the train station in time for the shuttle to the ferry. I stopped off en route to post my bounce box and to pick up a coffee. The shuttle turned out to be a van that seated about 12 people, while there were about 50 of us. I managed to get on for the second trip and it was a five minute drive to the ferry terminal where we checked in. The ferry was quite large with multiple decks, sitting areas, lounges, atria, cafés and restaurants.

I found a seat outside on the viewing deck and watched Wellington get smaller as we pulled away.

The crossing was smooth, the seas were quite calm although it did get windy when we were out in Cook’s Straight, sending most people inside. Once we got into Queen Charlotte’s Sound, the wind was less intense and we had some nice views of the coastline as we sailed into Picton.

It took about 3.5 hours in all, arriving just after noon. I had booked a transfer to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track through E-ko tours and had about an hour after disembarking to look around. I of course bought myself an ice cream at the local ice cream parlour. At the E-ko tours office, we were given a brief overview of the tour and what wildlife we might see. I realised that everyone else was doing their tour and that while they were visiting an Island, I would be dropped off at Ship’s Cove, where the track starts. The tour was good, we stopped multiple times to look at birds like the Australasian ganet and fluttering shearwaters, and we also saw some seals. No dolphins or orcas this time though. I got to Ship’s Cove around 3:15 and took some time to read about Captain Cook’s history with the area. There’s a monument there and an explanatory display.

Then it was off up the track, which isn’t steep although it was all up and down. There was a lovely view point about halfway to the first campsite, which I reached just before 5.

It’s set on Schoolhouse Bay and there’s a little rocky beach here with a beautiful view of the sound.

The South Island is definitely starting well in terms of scenery. It’s also delivering the promised sand flies, which found me pretty much as soon as I landed, and with wekas, birds that like to steal things, roaming around the campsite. There were a few other TAers at the campground and also a couple on holiday who are just doing the Queen Charlotte track and who have me a glass of red wine. They’re having their bags transported and only hiking with day bags hence their ability to being along some wine.

Day 80: Schoolhouse Bay to Bay of Many Coves

The start of the day was nice and easy with the track undulating gently up and down along the coast past Resolution Bay and into Endeavor Inlet.

I got to Furneaux lodge, a resort, just after 10, so missed being able to get a second breakfast, but got a coffee and used their wifi. The next section was also quite easy and I saw a fair number of day hikers out and about. I stopped for lunch at the campsite at Camp Bay, and had lunch with some other TAers. From Camp Bay, it was a little more steep heading up to the ridgeline above the sound.

There were less day hikers on this section, but I did meet a nice DOC worker. I ended my day at the campsite at Bay of Many Coves, which is up on the ridge as it looks down on the Bay.

There were some wekas around and at one point I went to get some water and left my food bag unattended and open and came back a minute later to find that a weka had already removed several items and had scattered them around. I didn’t loose anything thankfully. I also found my shoes moved locations multiple times over my stay. The only other person camping at the site was Paul, another TAer. He hung his food from a hook in the shelter but during the night he heard possums and they had managed to get at his food despite it being hung. Luckily he managed to chase them away before too much damage was done.

Day 81: Bay of Many Coves to Davies Bay

The track stayed up high today so seeing the lovely turquoise blue water below was quite the tease, especially since it was hot and sunny. It was also a bit more challenging with the ups and downs being steeper and more exposed. All the views were still lovely though.

I was actually quite glad when the track turned back into it’s previous gentle ups and downs for the last few kms of the day. I was also glad that the campsite was right next to a beach.

When I arrived, a met a youngish Kiwi woman here for the weekend and we went for a swim together. She told me that stingrays are common, at least where she works across the bay. We didn’t see any, although I did see a lot of little starfish. Paul arrived eventually and we spent a nice evening chatting before hitting the hay.

Day 83: Davies Bay to Havelock

It was just 3 km to the end of the Queen Charlotte track, so over in a flash this morning. The trail continues through Anikiwa, which is basically just a bunch of houses with no services.

There is a coffee truck, but it doesn’t open until 1:30 pm?! So I was out of luck since I had run out of coffee. The trail follows the Link pathway all the way to Havelock. Sometimes right beside the road and other times a bit away from it.

I did manage to get a coffee from a closed tavern on my way through Linkwater and had much more pep in my step afterwards. I was pleasantly surprised by today’s walk since I thought it was basically going to be all road and it was a nice path instead.

I got into Havelock just before 3 and bought some gas, fruit and of course an ice cream. I settled into the Holiday Park and did all my chores before heading to the Mussel Pot for dinner. The region is famed for it’s green lipped mussels, which are larger than our mussels. The spat (baby mussels) used to farm them is actually often collected from 90 mile beach. I had a sampling of steamed, marinated, grilled, battered and smoked mussels, with my favorite being the smoked although they were all delicious. Even Paul, a professed mussel disliker, said he enjoyed the one that he sampled.