I didn’t sleep super well again, I especially had difficulty falling asleep because my knees and feet were hurting a lot. However, the morning was a bright and sunny, a welcome change after the rain and clouds of the last few days. After a couple of kms along the road, I’d be starting the section that I did two years ago in the rain with no views and which is rumored to be one of the most beautiful sections of the trail. From the road, it’s a few kms of up and down to the waterfall, Chute Hélène.

I saw some paw prints in the mud and hoped that there were some people hiking with a dog ahead of me. I did catch up with some day hikers at the waterfall, but they didn’t have a dog. One of them assured me that it was a coyote print, but that I needn’t worry since they’re typically solitary and stay away of humans. Apparently, it’s very rare to see one and their howls can make it sound like there’s a whole pack when it’s just a solitary one. The hikers gave me a sandwich and an apple, my second trail magic. I gladly accepted them even though my pack was full of my resupply. The trail continues to Abri Ruisseau Bascon, where I had camped two years ago and then it’s a very long gradual climb up the back of Mont Matawees. After Ruisseau Bascon, there’s no water until near the refuge, about 18km away, so I drank as much as I could, filled up all my bottles and my 2L pouch. Ouff, my bag was heavy, the heaviest yet what with 8 lbs of water and my food resupply. And even though I was glad to have a clear day, it certainly made for very warm climbing. I did finally get to the top of Matawees and had a lunch break while enjoying the epic views of the Chic Chocs and the St-Lawrence Gulf.

After lunch, it was along a ridge, across some scree, down and then up again to another longer ridge and finally up to the top of Mont Logan, at 1150m. At some point, I had crossed into the next section of the trail; the Parc de la Gaspesie.

I have to confess that I didn’t quite make it up to the top of Mont Logan since it’s a short detour from the trail and I had already been. I did relax on a bench next to the trail for a bit and texted Gill to learn that Jordana’s father had passed away the previous night. I had only met him a couple of times, but I was sad for them and for Jordana’s family. It felt awkward to text condolences and not to be able to give them in person. I eventually got moving when it started to cloud over and threaten rain. It was an easy last 3 kms to the refuges, there are two about 100 m apart. With the park, you had to reserve the entire refuge, and not just a bunk, given their covid rules. When I had booked mine, I had thought that they had said that the other was already booked, but no one was there or showed up. The refuge was a bit run-down and the windows didn’t open properly. There were also tons of big flies buzzing around in the vestibule area, but happily, none inside the actual living space. I had my dinner outside on the steps while watching the sunset, the first time I really got to enjoy one.